Saturday, June 27, 2009

Regalia

I'm not even Bhutanese and I was afraid. The newly coronated 5th Druk Gyalpo (King) of Bhutan -- K5 for short - stood 10 feet away from me. Needless to say, this was the first time that Tommy Chupein, the kid from Americana, Pennsylvania was in the same room as the King of a country. I know I am not supposed to look at him -- I bowed my head the whole time, but I could not resist rolling my eyes up into my head so I could catch a sheepish glance at His Majesty until I gave myself a terrible headache. I am sure I was not alone in the room that day as people sneaked looks.

Never a dull moment in my Bhutan summer, I was invited to attend the opening of the National Assembly on Thursday. Let's just say it is not exactly like a U.S. Congressional session with all its blowhard, self-important, posturing speeches. The King arrives at the Assembly by a walking procession (unfortunately, he no longer rides a horse) with monks carrying prayer flags,, blowing flutes and long Himalayan trumpets, and beating drums. First, the public enters the beautiful Assembly hall in their finest clothes, even wearing traditional silk-embroidered boots, which, by the way, are the coolest boots ever made -- and I am coming back to Massachusetts with a pair.

Then, enter the government officials -- each one's rank clear by the color of their kabney (scarf). Green for judges, Blue for MPs, Orange for Ministers, and of course, Yellow for His Majesty. The entire rooms sits silent as the King enters and prostrates to the altars. The monks enter and take their seats. Then, come a parade of bare-footed servants who offer gifts to the King and to all the MPs....tea, a handful of rice, betelnut, various fruits, and sweets. This ceremony is accompanied by monks chanting prayers and lasts for over 30 minutes, the entire room in silence. The King sits on his throne, with the lighting over him appropriately shadowed to give him some privacy.

The Assembly Hall is exquisite. The golden throne is flanked by two exceptionally large thangkas, one of Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava) and the other of Zhabdrung, the 17th century unified of Bhutan. The ceiling is elaborately painted with the 8 auspicious symbols of the Buddhism. On the walls are builtout replicas of traditional Bhutanese verandas, its windows enclosed in glass.

Like all special events and in all temples, no cameras are permitted. So, I had to take it all in so that I would remember the images and the sounds for my lifetime. My mom always marvels at how "little Rita Chupein from Southwest Philly ever got to travel to places like Rome and Paris." I sat in the Assembly -- in Thimphu, Bhutan -- thinking of my mother and father and how I wish I could call them and say thank you because I have no idea how "little Tommy Chupein from Wallingford, PA. ever ended up halfway around the world watching the opening session of the National Assembly in the presence of the King of the Land of the Thunder Dragon." And so goes another surreal moment in this pretty damn amazing summer.

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