Falling in Love

The magic of Bhutan is washing over me --- like the clouds that float by my house at eye level and the plethora of forested streams that wind their way down the innumerable mountains that encircle me.

I am falling in love. With a place. Every direction I turn I feel inspired. Cleansed. Clear. Healed. Quieter. More at peace. I feel ridiculous saying this -- I am falling into the well-worn groove the Shangri-la discourse. But, whatever -- this is how I feel here. It's just a really easy place to BE.

Yesterday was one of those days when the Excel demons decided to foil me at every drag of the cursor. I left the office feeling frustrated and walked out tired. I looked up at yet another smiling face who said, "Hi" reaching out his hand at me. "Where do you work?" I said, "GNHC" and he said, "Oh, that's why you look so happy." I laughed because of the irony of the observation -- then I realized he had an orange kargey (scarf) over his gho and I was like, "Wait, that's a high ranking." Then, I saw his giant sword at his side and realized he was a Minister. This happened just hours after I met someone who may be able to introduce me to the King (K5) before I leave. Let's hope that happens!

I walked away, thinking...I need to walk home the 45 minutes up the mountain. It was particularly cool and cloudy with a fresh breeze coming from the south over the grasses where the guys play archery and the little kids run around with their heads popping out now and then. With each step I climbed, different views appeared -- more little round-headed, red-cheeked little munchkins running around and any frustrations I felt about work melted away. All the kids playing their little stone throwing game said hi to me. All the women gave me shy smiles. Thankfully, the perpetually anxious dogs remained sleeping. I bought some chocolate.

I ate it and one little boy was playing on the wall. He threw a tire onto the sidewalk, getting ready to roll it up the hill with his stick. I gave him a little piece of chocolate (something I rarely do for ethical reasons) but he is my neighbor and so I made an exception. His little friend saw that he had chocolate and then he started running after me quick as he could. He was only 4 or so, so he didn't speak any English yet. I said, "What is it you want, little friend." He just smiled. I said, "I think I know what you want, Spiderman." (He had a Spiderman shirt on.) I said, "Chocolate?" And he started laughing and put his hand over his mouth...hehe. He was so happy with his little chocolate.

I came home and cooked a giant, spicy curry with fresh, local, organic vegetables and then sat down to read an entire book of Bhutanese folk tales in just one night. Strange, magical stories that hypnotize you. So, the idiocy of frustration from a job led to an evening that put everything back in place.

Tonight, I met Ugyen -- the English teacher at Dechen Phodrang, the monastery just about Tashichhodzong where I work. He introduced me to the Principal monk of the school/monastery. Like all the monasteries, this one is situated in a paradise. It overlooks the entire Thimphu valley with the Wangchhu (river) winding its way through in front of you, pale green-grey like a big snake. Just under the cliff are all the terraced rice paddies with the Dzong in the background -- it's golden lights breaking up the grey of dusk. The white prayer flags flapping beside the temple high above --- get the drift? It's absurdly beautiful here -- almost unearthly -- at least more peaceful, secluded, and safe like a big blanket than anywhere else I have ever been.

I am very happy here and think more and more often how nice it would be to come back again for a longer stay. I am falling in love with this beautiful Kingdom. I hope everyone who reads these words gets the chance to see it someday.